Battling Haute Couture: Paris Couture Week S/S2015

Going to the shows in Paris for Haute Couture is a bit like going to war.  Only, unlike a soldier, you don't pack in a camouflage duffle but the largest 2 suitcases you have.  And you don't pack combat boots and uniforms, you pack stilettos and designer dresses.  Guns are traded in for handbags, and bullets are your jewels.  This isn't war.  This is fashion.

First battle: Versace Haute Couture.  Versace always starts off the war on Sunday night.  An exciting and electrifying kick off, Donatella Versace never disappoints with her designs, and this year was the best runway I've seen so far from her.  The sleek suits and cut out dresses were simple and sexy.  Sapphire blue, black, red and white never looked so good together.  The attention to the woman's shape is never denied, and I found my first ever Versace HC look this season.  At this point, not sure if I'm winning or losing the battle.

Dior is next.  I have officially become a Dior Haute Couture girl.  My admiration for Raf Simons is loyal from Haute Couture to Ready to Wear to accessories.  His modern architectural approach to clothes both inspires me and captures me.  And the shapes from this season are right up my alley, blending the line between 1960's Mod and futuristic Modern. When there are so many open targets, it's hard to decide which one to focus on!

Alexis Mabille.  He is the darling of the Paris fashion scene: always airy and impish.  He really remembers the fantasy of couture, and this collection was no different.  Sad to miss his 10th Anniversary dinner after, this war was starting to wear at me a bit.  (and I even had a seat across from Hamish Bowles!) Paris Haute Couture is not meant for the weak at heart…

Dita Von Teese in Alexis with the man of the hour Alexis Mabille

Stephane Rolland was a surprise attack.  I really liked the simplicity of this show.  Confirming that black and white is the new uniform and sheer is the best camouflage, Rolland was fresh and bold.  All of the looks had a calm tranquility over us as the transparent sexuality mesmerized.

Final battle of the week was Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture.  I love saving the best for last!  JPG never fails to come out with bullets, hand grenades and victory fireworks.  I thought this was one of the best JPG shows I've seen in a few seasons.  And his inclusion of his retired soldiers that walked the cat walk was a testimony to his history and place as one of the best of Haute Couture.

At the end of the war, we all celebrate with the SIDaction Gala, an organization dedicated to the ongoing fight against AIDS.  Designers, models, actors, and fashion lovers all come together to continue raising funds for the scientific research and education that must still happen in this war that is still yet to be won.  We celebrate the small battles and strategize the next.  

The best way to end the Haute Couture week.

Wearing Alexis Mabille Haute Couture with fellow fashionista Amber Sakai in her own design and Jean Paul Gaultier

My dates and fashion marines, Brian Atwood and Joey Maalouf

For the love of Gaultier

The last day of Paris Couture week was my most anticipated day.  Jean Paul Gaultier.  You can expect Parisian chic, interesting, beautiful clothes shown with drama and flair.

With Cameron Silver  who is in cute Gaultier seer sucker, and I'm wearing Lisa Perry with
Gaultier necklace and leather jacket (photo courtesy of Ellen Olivier: Society News LA)

After about an hour, even the Divine Miss M had to stand up for a stretch and cool-off

Ulyana making her way in

First things first.  I thought the wait for the Rolland show was long the day before, but nothing had me prepared for the wait at Gaultier.  Held in his own space in the Marais, it can be hot along the catwalk in January, so just imagine in July.  In total time, we all waited 80 minutes.  I sat on the front row and straight across from me sat Bette Midler with her daughter.  And the Russian designer from the day before, Ulyana Sergeenko, came in wearing one of her couture designs.  Evian was passed around, and we all sat wondering if we were waiting for Madonna - or worse - Kim K.

George Sand

 

The show finally kicked off with sounds from Pete Doherty (apparently the show was inspired by the film he stars in, seen at the Cannes Film Festival, Confession of a Child of the Century).  Luckily, based on the film reviews, the show was much better than the film.  With a dark beginning, and looking like vampire visions of the turn of the Century, the black tails and top hats were alluring and sexy.  Breaking down the look into each piece, I saw the beauty and simplicity.  Everything was androgynous, as the show was also inspired by the life of George Sand, cross-dresser and writer of the nineteenth century.

But the men almost stole the show.  Even if they were dressed in dresses…

I must try this one on - sans fur.  And just look at the boots - these were also done in black.  Yummy!

Flappers emerged after the sea of black, bringing color, life and fun as the flappers did.  Les Garconnes, they also brought a little cross-dressing of their own with short hair, trousers for evening, and voting rights for women.  And thank the Lord, these models wore hair nets on their hair and not over their faces, remembering Valli and Armani.

Yes.  Worth the wait.  Gaultier fails to disappoint.  He is a genius of clothes, a genius of fashion.  A turban-wearing genius. And I have already downloaded the movie Impromptu...